We use RIT Clothing Dye. Buy it at the drug, grocery, or variety store.
Mix 1 box of dye powder per US gallon of water.
Bead blast the parts first to rough them up to a uniform, satin finish.
Glossy parts do not stain well.
Heat the dye to 110 to 120 degrees F. (This accelerates the color).
immerse the parts in the dye solution, keep them moving to get a uniform
I use a gloved hand to keep parts moving, this also keeps my hands from
those unsightly stains.
The more time in the solution, the deeper the color. A minute works well,
but make note of time for consistency.
Rinse parts in clear water immediately and use compressed air to blow dry.
If you want the parts to be translucent, use acrylic or lacquer clear coat
after....they look like candy.
Don't eat it, or you'll end up like me, goofy!
Rubber bands wrapped around the parts before dying makes for a tie-dyed
I think Elaine Hunt compiled other recipes last year in her annual "Cooking
with RP" Journal, available at finer news stands.
Steve Deak e-mail: email@example.com
Mgr.-Rapid Prototyping voice: (+1) 513-579-3270
Hasbro, Inc. fax: (+1) 513-579-3250
615 Elsinore Place
Cincinnati, OH 45202 USA "Our Business is FUN!"
From: Luper, Harold [mailto:HLuper@SOLIDIFORM.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 1999 8:38 AM
Subject: Color/Dyed SLA parts
Does anyone out there still have Steve Deak's own "home recipe" for using
food coloring to stain SLA parts?
Harold Luper http://www.solidiform.com
Prototyping Specialist email: firstname.lastname@example.org
| | Solidiform Incorporated
| |...___ 3928 Lawnwood
____| | Fort Worth, Texas
\ * \
| /\ ___!
V \ / Phone: (817)-831-2626
\ / Fax: (817)-831-8258
For more information about the rp-ml, see http://ltk.hut.fi/rp-ml/
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.2 : Tue Jun 05 2001 - 22:51:52 EEST